HargaNinja 250 SE ABS MDP (Smart Key) Rp 77.100.000. Harga Terbaru : Daftar Harga Motor Kawasaki. Seperti yang brosis lihat diatas, harga Ninja 250 termurah dibanderol 59 Jutaan. Harganya memang mahal, namun harga tersebut sebanding dengan performa mesin dan desain sporty yang dimilikinya.
Kawasaki Ninja 250 – Lightweight, sharp-looking, high-performance sports model offers excitement and ease of riding to a wide range of customers. Kawasaki proudly introduces a replacement sport model into this highly competitive arena. Clad in sharp new Ninja styling, the new Ninja 250 delivers greater performance than its predecessor care of all-new engine and chassis that are more powerful and significantly lighter. But just like the Ninja 300/250 that preceded it, this new Ninja model possesses far more than high performance. The new model takes the winning formula that drove the success of the Ninja 250R and its successors and amplifies it. Not only does the Ninja 250 offer stunning, but high-quality looks, its stronger engine performance, light, predictable handling, and relaxed, sporty riding position also make it both fun and easy to ride. Let’s check the equipment of Kawasaki Ninja 250 HIGH-CLASS & FUTURISTIC Head-turning looks have always been a forte of Ninja models, no matter displacement. The new Kawasaki Ninja 250 boasts futuristic new Ninja styling inspired by the mighty Ninja H2. The large-volume bodywork attracts attention and provides the impression of a bigger machine. This impression is reinforced by the high-class design and superb fit and finish, which are like bikes from a larger-displacement class. Additionally to contributing to the Ninja 250’s sharper looks, Slim LED headlamps each featuring low and high beams, as well as a LED position lamp are highly visible and offer significantly increased brightness. Ninja 250 is using a 249cc, twin-cylinder fuel-injected engine producing 39 HP at 12,500 rpm and Nm at 10,000 RPM. The engine comes mated to a 6-speed manual gearbox. The bike weighs almost 6 kg lighter than Ninja 400 and claims almost identical horsepower value to the larger Ninja 300. NOMENCLATURE Since 2008, the bike is marketed as the Ninja 250R in all markets. It is also referred to by its platform designation, EX250, to which a generational suffix is attached. In the United States, previous models EX250-E/F/G/H were already being marketed as members of the Ninja family of sport bikes, while outside of the the bike was known variously as the ZZR-250, ZX-250, or as the GPX-250R. One of the earliest models, the EX250-C, was given the name GPZ-250 HIGH PERFORMANCE & HIGH CONTROLLABILITY Displacing 249 cm3, the new engine delivers significantly increased performance compared to its predecessor kW for the new Ninja 250 The higher performance can largely be credited to the new downdraft intake, which is accompanied by a larger airbox offering increased intake efficiency. The increased performance is complemented by a rider-friendly character the smooth response and abundant low-end torque facilitate throttle control for new and experienced riders alike. NEW ASSIST & SLIPPER CLUTCH A more compact clutch ø139 mm >> ø125 mm with less rigid operating plates offers a 20% lighter lever pull. Complementing the extremely light feel at the lever, the new clutch has a wider engagement range, facilitating control. LIGHTWEIGHT, STABLE & MANOEUVRABLE The Ninja 250 features a trellis frame similar in design to that of the Ninja H2. Kawasaki’s advanced dynamic rigidity analysis was used to ensure optimum rigidity with the lightweight. The engine is rigid-mounted and used as a stressed member. The new frame design contributes significantly to the bike’s low curb mass. Like the Ninja H2, the new Ninja 250 features a Swingarm Mounting Plate. Allowing the swingarm to be affixed to the rear of the engine contributes to the stability and helps with weight savings by eliminating the need for heavy frame cross-members. MORE RIGID FRONT FORK A more rigid ø41 mm telescopic fork delivers better suspension action. The front-wheel feels really planted, direction changes are made easily even when the bike is fairly upright – handy when navigating traffic jams, and overall, the suspension offers the plushness of a larger displacement bike. HIGH-GRADE COCKPIT The Kawasaki Ninja 250 is equipped with an equivalent instrument cluster because the Ninja 650, contributes to the high-grade feel of the tidy cockpit. The subtle instrument design features an outsized analog tachometer flanked by warning lamps on one side, and a gear position indicator and multi-function LCD screen on the opposite. Specification-Information about the Kawasaki Ninja 250 engine ENGINE-POWER-PERFORMANCE Engine type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, Parallel Twin Displacement 249 cc Valve system DOHC, 8 valves Bore and stroke 62 x mm Compression ratio Transmission 6-speed, return Ignition Digital Fuel system Fuel injection ø32 mm x 2 Starting system Electric Clutch Wet multi-disc, Manual Tire front 110/70-17M/C 54H Tire rear 140/70-17M/C 66H Length x Width x Height 1,990 mm x 710 mm x 1,125 mm Wheelbase 1,370 mm Ground clearance 145 mm Seat height 795 mm Curb mass 167 kg Fuel Tank Capacity 14 liters BRAKES-SUSPENSION Brakes Front Single semi-floating ø310 mm petal disc Brakes Rear Single ø220 mm petal disc Suspension Front ø41 mm telescopic fork Suspension Rear Bottom-link Uni-Trak with gas-charged shock with adjustable preload Caliper Front Single balanced actuation dual-piston Caliper Rear Dual-piston QUICK FACTS & INFORMATION Bike Variant Kawasaki Ninja 250 Body Type Sports Fuel Type Petrol Price in India New Ninja 250 is expected to be priced around INR lakh in India ex-showroom. Top Speed 170+ km/ph Shades Lime Green / Ebony KRT Edition, Metallic Spark Black Official Tagline Street Born – Track Inspired Key Highlights Dual-Channel ABS, Fuel Injection, Dual Headlights, High Torque, Lightweight, Low Seat Height Vehicle Overview 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 250 was recently revealed internationally at Tokyo Motor Show. The updated motorcycle is exactly based on Ninja 400 and just uses a smaller power plant under its fairing SUSPENSION & CHASSIS Front Suspension 41 mm telescopic fork Rear Suspension Bottom-Link Uni-Trak with gas-charged shock and 5-way adjustable preload Frame Trellis, high-tensile steel Front Wheel Travel 130 mm Rear Wheel Travel 132 mm DIMENSIONS & WEIGHT Overall Length 1990 mm Overall Width 710 mm Overall Height 1120 mm Ground Clearance 140 mm Seat Height 785 mm Wheelbase 1370 mm Kerb/Wet Weight 167 kg Fuel Tank Capacity 14 liters INSTRUMENT CONSOLE FEATURES Speedometer Digital Tachometer Analog Trip Meter Digital Odometer Digital Clock Digital Fuel Gauge Digital BATTERY & LIGHTING Battery Type Maintenance Free Head Light LED Tail Light LED COMFORT & CONVENIENCE FEATURES Electric Start yes Pillion Footrest yes Step-up Seat/Split Seat yes Pillion Grabrail yes About the author Michael Parrotte was the Vice President of AGV Helmets America, and a consultant for KBC Helmets, Vemar Helmets, Suomy Helmets, Marushin Helmets, KYT Helmets, Sparx Helmets. In addition, he is the founder and owner of AGV Sports Group.
Hel Ninja 250 Fi" 19 barang. SELANG REM HEL ABS CBR250RR ABS NEW NINJA 250 NINJA 250 FI OLD Z250. Rp1.794.500. 5 Terjual 1 Jakarta Timur. Muhamad Raja Modifikasi. SELANG REM ABS HEL ABS CBR250RR ABS NEW NINJA 250 NINJA 250 FI OLD Z250 R25 MT25. Rp1.794.500
OWNER CENTER Welcome, Kawasaki owners. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. OWNER CENTER Welcome, Kawasaki owners. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle.
Setelahsebelumnya saya sempat mengicipi Yamaha R15 Black, kemarin saya berkesempatan untuk mencoba motor yang memiliki kubikasi lebih besar lagi yaitu Motor Kawasaki Ninja 250 FI milik Bro Cadoxs. Kebetulan bro Cadoxs mampir untuk yang kedua kalinya. Motor Dua Silinder dari kawasaki ini memang nampak besar.
Troubleshooting Guide ○Refer to the Fuel System chapter of the Service Manual for most of the DFI trouble shooting guide. ○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties. Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty Starter motor not rotating Ignition and engine stop switch not ON Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble Starter motor trouble Battery voltage low Starter relay not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting Starter system wiring shorted or open Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over Vehicle-down sensor DFI coming off Starter clutch trouble Starter idle gear trouble Engine won’t turn over Valve seizure Valve lifter seizure Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Transmission gear or bearing seizure Camshaft seizure Starter idle gear seizure No fuel flow No fuel in tank Fuel pump trouble Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel filter clogged Fuel line clogged No spark; spark weak Vehicle-down sensor DFI coming off Ignition switch not ON Engine stop switch turned OFF Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral Battery voltage low Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted Spark plug incorrect Stick coil shorted or not in good contact Stick coil trouble ECU trouble Neutral, starter lockout, or sidestand switch trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted Starter system wiring shorted or open Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown Fuel/air mixture incorrect Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted Air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather hose or air cleaner drain cap. Compression Low Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak No valve clearance Valve not seating properly valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface Poor Running at Low Speed Spark weak Battery voltage low Stick coil trouble Stick coil shorted or not in good contact Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect ECU trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Bypass screw maladjusted Air passage clogged Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged Pilot passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel pump trouble Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Compression low Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface Camshaft cam worn Run-on dieseling Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Fuel injector trouble Loosen terminal of battery – cable or ECU ground lead Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface Engine overheating Other ECU trouble Throttle body assy not synchronizing Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Clutch slipping Engine overheating Air suction valve trouble Air switching valve trouble Poor Running or No Power at High Speed Firing incorrect Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect Stick coil shorted or not in good contact trouble Stick coil trouble ECU trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner duct loose Water or foreign matter in fuel Throttle body assy holder loose Fuel to injector insufficient Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel line clogged Fuel pump trouble Compression low Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface Knocking Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect ECU trouble Miscellaneous Throttle valve won’t fully open Brake dragging Clutch slipping Engine overheating Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Camshaft cam worn Air suction valve trouble Air switching valve trouble Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating KLEEN Overheating Firing incorrect Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect ECU trouble Muffler overheating For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running Request the nearest service facility to correct it For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine ECU trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Compression high Carbon built up in combustion chamber Engine load faulty Clutch slipping Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Lubrication inadequate Engine oil level too low Engine oil poor quality or incorrect Gauge incorrect Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken Coolant incorrect Coolant level too low Coolant deteriorated Wrong coolant mixed ratio Cooling system component incorrect Radiator fin damaged Radiator clogged Thermostat trouble Radiator cap trouble Radiator fan relay trouble Fan motor broken Fan blade damaged Water pump not turning Water pump impeller damaged Over Cooling Gauge incorrect Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken Cooling system component incorrect Thermostat trouble Clutch Operation Faulty Clutch slipping Friction plate worn or warped Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring broken or weak Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn No clutch lever play Clutch inner cable trouble Clutch release mechanism trouble Clutch not disengaging properly Clutch plate warped or too rough Clutch spring compression uneven Engine oil deteriorated Engine oil viscosity too high Engine oil level too high Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Clutch hub nut loose Clutch hub spline damaged Clutch friction plate installed wrong Clutch lever play excessive Clutch release mechanism trouble Gear Shifting Faulty Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft Shift return spring weak or broken Shift return spring pin loose Shift mechanism arm broken Shift pawl broken Pawl spring broken Jumps out of gear Shift fork ear worn, bent Gear groove worn Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Shift drum groove worn Shift fork guide pin worn Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn Overshifts Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken Pawl spring broken Abnormal Engine Noise Knocking ECU trouble Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect Overheating Piston slap Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod bent Piston pin, piston pin hole worn Valve noise Valve clearance incorrect Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft bearing worn Valve lifter worn Other noise Connecting rod small end clearance excessive Connecting rod big end clearance excessive Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck Piston ring groove worn Piston seizure, damage Cylinder head gasket leaking Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection Crankshaft runout excessive Engine mount loose Crankshaft bearing worn Primary gear worn or chipped Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn Air suction valve damaged Air switching valve damaged Alternator rotor loose Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating KLEEN Abnormal Drive Train Noise Clutch noise Clutch damper weak or damaged Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive Clutch housing gear worn Transmission noise Bearings worn Transmission gear worn or chipped Metal chips jammed in gear teeth Engine oil insufficient Drive line noise Drive chain adjusted improperly Drive chain worn Rear and/or engine sprocket worn Chain lubrication insufficient Rear wheel misaligned Abnormal Frame Noise Front fork noise Oil insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken Rear shock absorber noise Shock absorber damaged Disc brake noise Pad installed incorrectly Pad surface glazed Disc warped Caliper trouble Other noise Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened Oil Pressure Warning Indicator Light Goes On Engine oil pump damaged Engine oil screen clogged Engine oil filter clogged Engine oil level too low Engine oil viscosity too low Camshaft bearing worn Crankshaft bearing worn Oil pressure switch damaged Wiring faulty Relief valve stuck open O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged Exhaust Smokes Excessively White smoke Piston oil ring worn Cylinder worn Valve oil seal damaged Valve guide worn Engine oil level too high Black smoke Air cleaner clogged Brown smoke Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory Handlebar hard to turn Cable routing incorrect Hose routing incorrect Wiring routing incorrect Steering stem nut too tight Steering stem bearing damaged Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate Steering stem bent Tire air pressure too low Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates Tire worn Swingarm pivot bearing worn Rim warped, or not balanced Wheel bearing worn Handlebar mounting bolt loose Steering stem nut loose Front, rear axle runout excessive Engine mounting nut loose Handlebar pulls to one side Frame bent Wheel misalignment Swingarm bent or twisted Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive Steering maladjusted Front fork bent Right and left front fork oil level uneven Shock absorption unsatisfactory Too hard Front fork oil excessive Front fork oil viscosity too high Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard Tire air pressure too high Front fork bent Too soft Tire air pressure too low Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Front fork oil viscosity too low Rear shock adjustment too soft Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak Rear shock absorber oil leaking Brake Doesn’t Hold Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn Brake fluid leakage Disc warped Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder Master cylinder scratched inside Battery Trouble Also see Motorcycle Battery & Battery Charging Tips- Motorcycle Battery & Battery Charging Tips Battery discharged Charge insufficient Battery faulty too low terminal voltage Battery cable making poor contact Load excessive bulb of excessive wattage Ignition switch trouble Alternator trouble Wiring faulty Regulator/rectifier trouble Battery overcharged Alternator trouble Regulator/rectifier trouble
Rp1.600.000 velg motor gede cocok untuk ninja 250 atau injeksi. Jatiasih, Bekasi Kota 17 Agt. Rp 1.000.000 Swing arm ninja 250 karbu + disck 250 fi. Pamulang, Rp 950.000 Knalpot ori ninja 250 fi komplit sama leher mulus bukan cbr/r25. Setia Budi, Jakarta Selatan Hari ini. Rp 1.125.000 Full system knalpot ninja 250 fi. Koja,
Kode Error Kawasaki Ninja 250 Injeksi – Untuk pembahasan kali ini kami akan memberikan informasi mengenai kode error kawasaki Ninja 250 Injeksi, nah agar dapat lebih memahami dan di mengerti kalau begitu simaklah pemaparannya berikut ini. Dalam hal ini bukan hanya pada motor new vixion yang muncul kedipan kerusakan di speedometer namun sepertinya pada motor injeksi jenis lainnya pun dalam hal ini mengalami hal yang sama, nah dibawah ini kami akan sharing beberapa kode eror atau kedipan lampu MIL “Malfunction Indicator Light” pada speedometer. Kode Error Kawasaki Ninja 250 InjeksiTanda Muncul Kerusakan di Indikator Pada sepeda motor sekarang ini hampir semuanya sudah menggunakan teknologi yang namanya injeksi dan bila ada salah satu komponen sensornya yang mengalami kerusakan maka nanti akan muncul tanda lampu pemberitahuan atau kedipan. Nah umumnya lampu kedipan tersebut memiliki warna kuning yang bergambar atau icon mesin atau yang bisa disebut juga dengan istilah lampu check engine. Seperti apa sih penjelasannya,,,,?? Untuk penjelasan gambar dalam hal ini menggunakan bahasa Inggris, jadi mau gak mau kalian harus mengerti bahasa inggris untuk dapat memahaminya atau jika tidak bisa kalian bisa artikel menggunakan tools dari google yakni google translate atau jika masih kesulitan kalian bisa meminta bantuan orang lain yang ngerti bahasa inggris. Tanda Muncul Kerusakan di Indikator Hampir sebagian pengguna motor injeksi tidak terlalu paham pada problem motor yang terjadi pada tunggangannya. Misalnya jika muncul indikator kerusakan yang ditandai pada lampu panel spidometer. Kedipan lampu MIL “Malfuction Indicator Lamp” terlihat normal apabila setelah kunci ON selama 2 detik lalu mati “kalibrasi”. Jika motor terdapat problem maka lampu MIL akan berkedip, kedipan tersebut juga ada jenisnya ada kedipan panjang dan kedipan pendek. Kedipan panjang “1,3 detik” diartikan puluhan “10”, kedip pendek “0,3 detik” satu kali berarti 1 dan seterusnya. Berikut ini ialah kumpulan kode error pada motor kawasaki ninja. Oiya,,,, dalam memperbaiki agar lampu kuning engine warning tidak muncul maka motornya harus dibawah ke bengkel resmi kawasaki untuk di perbaiki, jika sudah di perbaiki maka nanti lampu engine warning akan mati dan kode error pun tidak akan muncul lagi. Demikianlah pembahasan mengenai Kode Error Kawasaki Ninja 250 Injeksi semoga dengan adanya ulasan tersebut dapat berguna dan bermanfaat bagi kalian semua, terima kasih banyak atas kunjungannya. 🙂 🙂 🙂
Locked Mod Menu ninja bo3 menu. 4 Added support for serious T7 Compiler, Make sure you change SP in gsc. Black Ops 3 Zombie Mods Usb Mod - Download - (BO3 Mods No Jailbreak) / [Ps3/Xbox/Ps4/One/Pc] black ops 3 zombies mod menu black ops 3 mods ps4; For the first time with three-years of development, the revered, award-winning studio has
This is the maintenance schedule with associated service intervals for the Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J made between 2008-2012, also known as the Kawasaki EX250 in different markets. But it’s usually just known as a “Ninja 250R” or “Ninja 250”. The Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J, 2008-2012 is a motorcycle in the Ninja sport bike line, which encapsulates everything from sporty commuters like the Ninja 250 up to hyper-bikes like the Ninja H2. The original Ninja 250 1988-2007 was made very similarly for many years and shares a common maintenance schedule across the period. The venerable Kawasaki Ninja 250 underwent a big redesign in 2008, and was made the same way until 2012, at which point it was retired in most western markets. It was succeeded by the Kawasaki Ninja 300, which shortly thereafter itself was succeeded by the more powerful and lighter Ninja 400! Originally published Oct 19, 2020, but significantly updated in the intervening years. This site has links for things like oil and spark plugs from which we earn a commission which unfortunately nobody can save, not even us. If you appreciate this work, then please use those links. Thanks! Kawasaki Ninja 250R Service intervals The Kawasaki Ninja 250R has 7500 mile / 12000 km or annual service intervals. At every service, change the oil and filter. Kawasaki also recommends you change the air filter at each service, or at least every two years. The valve clearance interval is also 7500 miles / 12000 km, though doesn’t have a distance attached. On the other hand, many owners of the Ninja 250R report that the valves rarely need adjusting, especially after the first service or two. Regularly change the brake fluid, coolant, and rubber parts as they begin to fatigue. What you need to service your Kawasaki Ninja 250R The Ninja 250 is a popular first bike, and a great bike to start to learn to do your own service on. Aside from basic motorcycle maintenance tools, here are a few special parts you’ll need to service your Kawasaki Ninja 250. PartNinja EX250 250R specOilYou need SAE 10W-40 engine oil manual says mineral, semi-synthetic, and full synthetic are all OK. Use a good mid-range oil like Motul 5100 10W-40 no need for something race-spec.Don’t over-torque the drain bolt spec is 20 Nm/14 lb-ft per the manual — use a torque wrench if you don’t have experience with how much torque is filterUse a Hiflofiltro HF401, a commonly available and high-quality replacement. Torque on the oil filter is 20 Nm/14 lubricantThe chain needs to be lubricated every 600 km/400 miles or more, if it gets wet/dirty. Motul chain paste is cheap and lubricantRemember to lubricate your clutch cable and brake cables if you have them with a cable lubricant. Protect All Cable Life is a good general-purpose fluidSpec is to use DOT-4 brake fluid, Castrol DOT ethylene glycol pre-mix coolant with a 50% mixture, with anti-corrosion inhibitors safe for an aluminium radiator. Valvoline Zerex brake padsReplace the stock pads with EBC brake pads for better bite and less fade, code brake padsReplace the stock rear pads with EBC double hardened brake pads to match the front — code FA197HH same as the front.Spark plugsNGK CR8E, with a spark plug gap of use a spark plug gapping tool, torqued to 13 Nm or 9 ft-lb use a torque wrenchAir filterYou can use the K&N equivalent a lithium soap-based grease for all the important greasing for servicing the Ninja 250R 2008-2012. Below is the maintenance schedule for the Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J. The original maintenance schedule for the Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J was broken into three sections Engine Related Items, Chassis Related Items, and Change/Replacement Items. To clarify this, we combined them, then separated them into two sections The main service schedule of important items like oil changes, spark plugs, and valve clearances The checklist of items to go over, including hoses, lights, and safety equipment Notes on the maintenance schedule For higher odometer readings, repeat at the frequency interval established here. Follow the earlier of the time and distance-based intervals. The break-in service is omitted, as the Ninja 250R is no longer sold new. Check the braking system more often, between services, as it’s critical to safety. mi x x 100012243648EveryStandard service checklist see below — Perform✓✓✓✓YearEngine oil – change Motul 5100 10W-40✓✓✓✓Year, or more often if riding aggressivelyOil filter – replace HF401✓✓✓✓YearAir cleaner element – clean/replace KA-2508✓✓✓✓Replace every 2 yearsValve clearances – inspect / adjust✓✓✓✓Engine vacuum synchronization – inspect✓✓✓✓Air suction system damage – inspect✓✓✓✓Idle speed – inspect✓✓✓✓Clutch operation play, engagement, disengagement – inspect✓✓✓✓Drive chain wear – inspect✓✓✓✓More often if riding in dusty / wet conditionsDrive chain guide wear – inspect✓✓✓✓Tire tread wear, abnormal wear – inspect✓✓✓✓Wheels/tires damage – inspect✓✓✓✓Brake pad wear – inspectMore often if riding in dusty / dirty conditions✓✓✓✓Uni-trak rocker arm and tie rods – inspect✓✓✓✓Brake fluid front and rear – change Castrol DOT 4✓✓2 yearsBrake hoses – replace✓4 yearsRubber parts of master cylinder and caliper – replace✓4 yearsCoolant – change Valvoline Zerex G05✓3 yearsRadiator hoses and O-rings – replace✓3 yearsFuel hoses – replace5 yearsSwingarm pivot – lubricate lithium soap-based grease✓✓Steering stem bearings – lubricate lithium soap-based grease✓✓2 yearsNinja 250R Service Schedule Standard service checklist This is the standard checklist of things to look over when servicing your Kawasaki Ninja 250R. Do this according to the schedule above. Kawasaki Ninja 250R Standard Service ChecklistThrottle control system play, smooth return, no drag – inspectChoke operation – inspectFuel leak fuel hose and pipe – inspectFuel hoses damage – inspectFuel hoses installation condition – inspectCoolant level – inspectCoolant leak – inspectRadiator hose damage – inspectRadiator hoses installation condition – inspectTire air pressure – inspectWheel bearings damage – inspectBrake fluid leak – inspectBrake hoses damage – inspectBrake fluid level – inspectInspect every 6 monthsBrake hose installation condition – inspectBrake operation effectiveness, play, drag – inspectBrake light switch operation – inspectFront fork — inspect for leaks, smooth operationRear shock — inspect for leaks, smooth operationSteering play – inspectLights and switches operation – inspectHeadlight aiming – inspectSide stand switch operation – inspectEngine stop switch operation – inspectChassis parts – lubricateBolts and nuts tightness – inspectEvaporative emission control system – function CA model onlyKawasaki Ninja 250R Standard Service Checklist Maintaining the Kawasaki Ninja 250R’s Chain It’s important to maintain your chain on the Ninja 250R, as on any chain-driven motorcycle. Use a good-quality chain lubricant like Motul chain paste, or a Motul chain care kit which comes with a couple of handy tools to maintain the chain. Kawasaki recommends you follow the following chain maintenance schedule Chain maintenance itemEveryCheck drive chain lubrication condition, lubricating if necessary Motul chain paste400 mi / 600 kmCheck drive chain slack, adjusting if necessarySlack should be 20-30mm of free play at the loosest mi / 1000 kmChain maintenance — Kawasaki Ninja 250R Notes on chain maintenance for the Ninja 250R Do these items checking/adjusting slack, and checking/applying lubrication more often if you ride your Ninja 250R in dusty or rainy conditions. Always lubricate the chain after washing the motorcycle. Kawasaki Ninja 250R measuring chain slack To adjust chain slack, you need to adjust the position of the wheel on the rear axle. It’s easy with some simple home tools including a socket set and wrenches, although you do need a large torque wrench if you’re unfamiliar with how tightly to do up the rear axle bolt. Follow these steps Put the motorcycle up on its side stand on a level surface. On the rear axle, loosen the adjuster locknuts on each side. Remove the cotter pin, and loosen the rear axle nut. If the chain is too loose, turn in the adjusting nuts evenly. Do the converse if the chain is too loose Tighten the adjusting nuts evenly — to maintain wheel alignment. Re-tighten the axle nut 98 Nm / 72 lb-ft Tighten the lock nuts. Tyre size and tyre pressure for the Kawasaki Ninja The Kawasaki Ninja has the following tyre sizes standard, plus the following recommended pressures. TyreSizeTyre pressureFront110/70-17 M/C 54S200 kPa/28 psiRear130/70-17 M/C 62S225 kPa/32 psiKawasaki Ninja 250R Tyres and tyre pressures The Ninja 250R shipped with Bridgestone BT-45R or Dunlop GT501R standard, but use whatever street/sport tyres suit your regular use. About the Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J The Ninja 250R is the quintessential first motorcycle. Affordable, easy to ride, easy to repair, and widely available, a common recommendation is for people to buy one and then to sell it for exactly what they paid for it. But that’s not all the Ninja 250R can be. It is a simple bike, but it has the underpinnings of a motorcycle that can be used for all kinds of shenanigans. Granted it’ll need different springs for the track, maybe gold valves, better brake lines and pads… but once you’re done with that and have cleared off a lot of weight, it can be quite a fun bike to rev up to the limiter on a tight circuit. In stock form, with its smooth and accessible power delivery, low seat height, and excellent value, the Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J has all the elements to make it the perfect first sport bike, giving a new rider a taste for the style. It’s lightweight and agile, with low ownership costs coupled with impressive performance for the capacity. It doesn’t pull that hard, but when you wind it up, it sounds like a jet engine! The 249cc liquid-cooled, parallel-twin engine is tuned for smooth, predictable power delivery around town and excellent performance on the highway. You have to rev it up, but the smooth and easy to use six-speed transmission with Kawasaki’s positive neutral finder means you can always keep it going at any speed you need. The modern aerodynamic fairing and windscreen mean that the Kawasaki Ninja 250 not only looks great but is comfortable to ride, keeping the wind off you and the chassis at speed. The Ninja 250 is also comfortable. It has a natural riding position and comfortable ergonomics. Riding it on city streets is a pleasure. The braking power is ample for a bike this light and modestly powered with a 290mm front and 220mm rear brake rotors, each gripped by two-piston hydraulic calipers. Like later Kawasaki Ninja models, the Kawasaki Ninja 250 has generally high-quality components and won’t let you down until you decide you have outgrown it. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 was retired for the Kawasaki Ninja 300. Manual for the Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J The above maintenance schedule comes directly from the user’s manual for the 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-J, which is available here. It’s the same for the other years. An archive copy of the 2012 manual is below. Motorcycle and car nut. Chief editor at Always reading about motorcycles and cars, looking at deals, and poring over manuals and forums, even for things I don't own. Sharing what I learn here.
FORSALE KAWASI NEW NINJA 250 2018 Warna Asli Merah Favorit. - Motor mesin std - Motor di rawat service rutin - SS lengkap - Part std ada semua - Pajak 1x off Yang Minat Serius WA aja Part modif - Cover Sein / side cowl carbon - Undercowl carbon - Cover Fin Carbon - Tail tidy SF - Knalpot H2 Full Sys - Miror Blanking Carbon - Jalu Pandock Rcb - Kover Radiator - Winglet Carbon - Spakbor Carbon
Motos
M97wOJI. 131 318 450 56 163 100 76 187 94
check engine ninja 250 fi